O + S Class Picnic Dress

It pays to involve them in decision-making -- Miss Thing chose the fabric and the pattern and specified the changes.  And she has not taken it off since I finished it two days ago.  The proportions are a bit off but K. is happy that there are more princesses than pink.  

The pattern is the Class Picnic Blouse, lengthened with a ruffle on the bottom and some green ric-rac at the yoke.  The fabric is Happy Ever After ordered from Hawthorne Threads.  

I didn't keep the receipt for the fabric and I can't remember the cost but here's the breakdown of what I used:
Fabric: 18 inches princesses in pink, 30 inches pink gingham -- approx. $15
Pattern: used before $0
Trim: the package costs $0.25 for 3 yards from Dressew so pretty much nothing
Total: about $15

Sewaholic Renfrew

I went to Vancouver last week and, especially as I was kid-free and husband-free, couldn't pass up a chance to go to Dressew. That place boggles my mind! I spent about 2 hours wandering around and still ended up going back the next day -- I can't take it in all at once.

This time around, the clearance section in the basement was filled with knits. Serendipitous as the Renfrew pattern was on my list of things to pick up.  It's not sold in stores here and so I thought I would save shipping and check out Spool of Thread at the same time. (As it turns out, a friend I was meeting suggested dinner at restaurant in the same block so it really worked out!).

I bought a couple of different knits but now really wish I'd bought them all!  I'm in love with this pattern -- quick to put together, fits well and looks great for a casual top.  If you left off the cuffs and used different fabric, it could even be quite dressy.

I'm in between sizes so picked the smaller size and then decreased the seam allowance to 3/8" (partly because I was worried it would be too tight and partly because a 5/8" SA seems a bit excessive for a knit).   I also added an inch of extra length to the body and an inch to the arms.  That might have been a bit overboard but it's super cozy and it may shrink more the next time I wash it.  I may add thumb holes to the cuffs -- I think that would be awesome under a jacket and mitts -- but I'm going to wear it a couple of times first.

I used a "new" stitch for this top.  Since I was going to be away, I took my machine (a middle of the road Kenmore) to get serviced.  When I got it home, I looked at the stitch test the repairman left behind and realized that I hadn't used most of the stitches.  So I got out my manual and wouldn't you know it, one of the stitches was called a straight stretch and was billed as durable and elastic.  With the hours I spend at my machine, how did I not even notice these extra stitches???

So I tried it out and so far so good.  It goes back and forth three times so there's not the gaps or the pulling in the seams as when I've used a narrow zigzag or even my double needle. It uses a tonne of thread -- I filled my bobbin twice for this top -- but if it works, that's fine by me.  I'm really kicking myself for not looking into it more when I was on my Field Trip kick.  Oh, well.  Next time!

(my husband took the pictures.  I told him he could include my face but the first few were awful.  I asked him what to do my face and he said I don't know, smile?  so there it is, my smile)

This year I've decided that I'm going to keep track of how much things cost to make.  I find it fascinating when other bloggers do it and I've realized that I have no idea what I spend.  So here's the breakdown for this top:

Fabric: Dressew $3.00/m, bought two metres and just have scraps left $6.72 including tax
Pattern: Spool of Thread $18.98 including tax
Total Cost: $25.70 Seems like a lot but I know I will use the pattern again.

Lined Wiksten Tova

This is the sixth time I've made this pattern but the first time I've lined the body.  I wanted to but chickened out when I made my mom's.  I did line the inset that time and, while Nina's post was helpful, she didn't provide any in-process photos.  So I decided to take pictures this time.  Really crappy pictures.  My sewing room is in a basement with no natural light so not so great for photography.  I tried to fix them in photoshop but I'm not sure I improved them much.  And the fabric ended up looking black and white instead of grey and white.  Anyway, here goes!

No photos of this step but I'm sure you can figure it out: place the inset and the inset lining right sides together and stitch the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the inset (as per the instructions).  Follow the instructions for completing the placket while keeping the lining free.

Repeat for the other side and then baste the inset pieces together at the placket with the left placket covering the right.

Baste the front piece lining to the front piece along where the inset will go (as you can see from the picture below, I didn't do this.  It would have been a good idea.)

Pin the inset to the front piece as per the instructions while keeping the lining free.  Stitch the inset to the front piece.

Where the plackets overlap, clip the seam allowance.  This is so that the entire seam allowance can be covered by the lining in the next step.

Fold lining over 3/8" to the wrong side and press.  From the front, pin lining so that it covers the stitching line and topstitch.  (or slipstitch or baste in place and then topstitch).

There. The inset is almost as pretty from the inside as the outside!

To finish it off, I sewed the front and back shoulder seams together including the lining.  When I sewed the side seams, I kept the lining free and finished it separately.  I cut the lining an inch shorter then the shirt so that it wouldn't show.   The only seams that are currently unfinished are around the arms and I think I will just trim and zig zag them.

And for the first time, a picture of me, including my face!  As you can tell from my lovely expression, I don't like pictures of myself but am going to try harder this year, especially when it comes to being in pictures with my kids.  I actually got out the tripod the other day, which my kids seemed to enjoy.  (my husband was home a the time but didn't take the hint!)

By the way, the fabric is a lightweight cotton from fabricland (bought for $14.  I've already made an Alma and I still have enough left for another top.  Hmm, would anyone notice if I had three different tops in the same fabric in rotation at the same time?). I lined the body in a cotton voile from Dharma Trading.

O + S Ombre Seashore Dress

I've been waiting for V&Co's Simply Color line to come out since she announced it on her blog months ago.  I was thinking of making a quilt but when I got the yardage I couldn't picture myself cutting it into little pieces; hence the Seashore Dress.  

We've had at least 50 cm of snow in the last week and it's -12 today so, although technically it is sunny, J. has absolutely no need of a sundress anytime soon, lol.  Once I got it in my head, though, there was nothing I could do but make it (despite the lengthy list of weather-appropriate sewing I have to do!).  

I made a size 6 for my tall skinny seven year old and added two inches to the body and one inch to the bottom.  I'm wishing I added more but I wanted to make sure that I got the full effect of the ombre, which I adore.   I'm a little disappointed in the fabric, though.  I washed it before cutting it out and I didn't notice until after I'd laid most of the dress out that there was a patch that didn't wash well -- you can kind of see in the picture below that it looks like there's a bit of extra dye in one spot. It ended up being in the back ruffle so I don't think it matters too much. 

Because I had decided to flat fell the side seams, I felt like I needed to topstitch the rest.  Halfway through I was wishing I hadn't though because of course I didn't have thread to match each colour. It's a little more of a statement than I would have liked, especially around the pockets and the hem. I could have stopped and gone to the store for matching thread but once I started this dress stopping was not an option!

I'm also not sold on these buttons so haven't done the button holes yet.  I couldn't find the ones I had in mind -- I think a little magpie may have squirreled them away (although the prime suspect denies it!).  I'm going to Vancouver in January so am going to hit up Button Button and Dressew for something with a little more pizazz.  J. wont be wearing this anytime soon anyway!

O + S Monkey Hat

I call her Monkey and she acts like a monkey so it's only fitting that she asked for a monkey hat.  It still needs a button but she was sitting still in relatively good light so I thought I'd grab my chance for a photo.   I made the same changes to the Oliver and S Cozy Winter Hood from Little Things to Sew as I did last year for the tiger hat.

(The tiger hat has stood up remarkably well, by the way, and gets compliments whenever she wears it -- she even got a shout out from Santa from his float when she was watching the Christmas parade!!)

Teacher Gifts

During the last O+S pattern sale, I bought Feed the Animals Coin Purses pattern with the intention of making my girls coin purses for xmas.  K. requested one for her teacher, too, so I got both girls to pick fabric and cut out 4 purses.  I started early with the best of intentions but I kept putting them aside for other projects because I really wasn't enjoying making them.  I should know by now that I'm too impatient to make anything with too many little pieces.

And this week, of course, I have no time.  So I decided  to pack it in.  My girls were disappointed (about the ones for the teachers, they didn't know about the ones for them) until I whipped up these:

I used the poochie bag tutorial over at Happy Zombie except without the "pooch".  The top fabric is Premier Prints from fabric.com and the bottom is voile from girlcharlee.com.  The grey on both is quilters linen from Hawthorne Threads.   Three bags in one evening is doable.  Trying to finish those coin purses was not :).

3 O + S Field Trips + a Class Picnic

A little buddy of mine loves purple.  His mom has a hard time finding purple shirts that don't have ruffles or flowers or other girly things so I offered to make him a t-shirt.  His mom bought two adult shirts -- an XL and a 4XL (!) so I had plenty of fabric to make two shirts and use the factory hems for the sleeves and body and the seam on one side.  The Field Trip T-Shirt pattern is a quick sew and all that made it even quicker. 

I don't have a serger so I used a double needle.  I'm really hoping they're durable.  I'm also really hoping they fit.  They are both the same size but one is an inch longer in the body and the sleeves.  I have a feeling that one might be for him to grow into.  It's nervewracking sewing for other people, especially since all I see is the imperfections.  They are very gracious and excited to have handmade shirts so I'm sure they wont mind.

I couldn't leave the little boy's older sister out.  She chose the pattern and the fabric and asked for some changes.  (She wanted the sleeves to be longer and more bell-shaped. Hopefully I went far enough for her -- not that I have a picture of the sleeves just a blurry picture of the body, d'oh!).  I added a little bit of twill tape to the back as I found my daughter has trouble telling back from front with hers.  Shoulda done that with the field trip shirts, too!

Last week I also made a field trip nightie for my littlest.  She needs another nightie like she needs a hole in the head but she loves this fabric (from girlcharlee.com) and it is waaaay too thin for a dress.  It's also got the border printed along the selvedge which is kind of awkward since the stretch goes the other way.  Although, judging by her reaction and the amount of time she's spent wearing it, the stretch factor is fine :).  And I still haven't got around to hemming it.  And now probably wont bother :P.

O + S After School Shirt in Shot Cotton

I have confession to make -- I have a walk in fabric closet that I can't even walk into.  I am genuinely grateful to have the space but lately have been feeling weighed down by the excess I have in there.  Before our renovation, I would only buy for a specific project because I had nowhere to store any extra.  Now I don't even know what I have . . . And it doesn't fit on the floor to ceiling shelves.  It's shameful really.   Part of the problem is that I love to dream about what I'm going to make but overestimate the amount of time that I have to actually make things.  Then there's the whole "I'm paying for shipping so I may as well add ____" trap.

Anyway, last week I decided to make written a plan -- a list of projects and which fabric I'm going to use.  It was going quite well and things were starting to look better when I got distracted by this shot cotton (it's Kaffe Fassett in Aegean from Mad About Patchwork).  I used the bulk of it for a top for myself (Vogue 1247) but when I pulled out the leftovers, I decided to see if there was enough for a After School Shirt for J. . . . and that was the end of my organizing for the day :).

So here's the top. I was short a couple of inches for the back but otherwise was good:

I struggled with it though -- I misread the directions and lined up the notches on the yoke.  I didn't notice until after I'd put the piping in and went to attach the front panel that it was about three inches too small.  Then for some reason I had lots of trouble setting the sleeves -- I sewed gathering stitches on them but didn't need to gather them.  In fact it seemed like the front was bigger.  I ripped out a few sections a couple of times but I still see some puckers.   Oh, well. I give up.

I bought these sparkly square buttons when we were travelling this summer and I think they suit this top wonderfully.  Plus they're like little jewels, which makes my daughter happy.

I added piping in a voile from Girl Charlee.  I used the same fabric for a band on the back where I didn't quite have enough of the blue.  It's kind of loud on it's own and more like a quilting cotton than a voile but it's magic fabric -- it seems to go with everything so I don't mind the extra bit on the back.

Sewaholic Alma

I was so excited when I received this pattern that I traced and cut it right away.  Then the Halloween madness began so it sat unfinished on my desk for weeks.  Even though it's not the right time of year for it now, I'm happy it's done -- it's a flattering, comfortable blouse that's not too fussy.  I can see other variations in my future.

The fabric is a super lightweight summer cotton that was on clearance 3 metres for the price of one.  I certainly wouldn't have bought it at full price ($14/m!) but it is pretty and works for a trial run.  

I'm not sure what I will change next time.  I debated about the size and ended up cutting a size bigger than my measurements because I know I wont wear something if it's too tight.  I think it'll take a couple of times wearing this before I know if it was the right decision.  But the larger size  meant that I didn't need to add a zipper.  Woo hoo!

I made a couple of changes -- I don't find cap sleeves all that flattering on me so I lengthened them by an inch or so (in a totally half-assed way -- by tracing the top for the size I wanted and then the line for the smallest size.  I had to adjust the sleeve again once I'd partly sewed it on because of course it didn't quite fit properly.  I should have drafted a whole new one but I don't know how to do that!).

I also lengthened the top by two inches partly because I'm long-waisted and partly because I wanted a deeper hem; I find small hems don't lie as flat.

Overall I think it's a great pattern. You do need to have some sewing experience, however, as the instructions aren't as thorough as O+S.  They're as good or better than the big 4, though.

O + S Bear Carrier

My little niece is about to be joined by a new baby brother or sister. (Tomorrow!!!)  I'm going to wait to find out if it's a boy or girl before I make a baby gift but I've finished the big sister gift -- a bear carrier from Little Things to Sew.  What a fun and quick project this was!  I used the same ultra suede type fabric I used for her cape and It's A Hoot scraps for the pocket, lining and straps.  I added batting to the straps to make them more sturdy and more comfortable for carrying around those extra heavy stuffies :).

I asked K. to be my model and she didn't want to take it off so I'm thinking I need to add one to my (growing) list of Christmas gifts to make.   I still need to trim the straps but I promise it's straight and fits well and she was happy about wearing it.  She was running around the house in an old flower girl dress and bare feet when I asked for a picture outside.  It was pretty cold so I snapped a couple of shots before she raced back in (mean mom!). 

K. thinks her cousin will love it but recommends that I include "instructions for the parents because they might not know how to get the stuffy in and out" :).