Christmas Sewing

As usual, I hoped to get many more things made for Christmas gifts this year.  I started early but you know how things go.  I did get a few things made, though:

Jammies.  Every year I make them whether they need them or not.  Well, J. always needs them, K. not so much.  (In fact, she has so many choices that it sometimes results in tears at the end of the day because she's too tired to decide!).  K.'s are McCalls M4646.  This pattern is so huge, I've been making the same size (size 3!) for ages, and just adding more length each year.  

Since J. will wear pj pants, I bought the sleepover pattern this year.  I cut out the top but it got put aside when I decided to make J. a dress for Christmas Eve.  I may finish it.  But then again, I may not.  I had already made a field trip tee for her to wear to school on her pj day so she doesn't really need another top. And she would likely choose a comfy knit top over one with buttons anyway.  Look how happy she looks, what a ham!

K. wore this playtime dress for three days straight so I'm glad I got it finished.  The fabric is a Michael Miller knit and it was a steal from Fabricland at around $3.50/m.  

 A couple of months ago, my mom put the word out to her friends that I was always looking for buttons.  Several of them have sent some pretty fabulous collections my way and K. is always almost as excited as me when they arrive.  When she found this one, she told me it had to go on the next thing I made her so she was thrilled to see it, even if it doesn't have any function.

I had planned for this hopscotch shirt to be a pj top and I was going to make pj pants but K. told me in no uncertain terms that she wouldn't wear pj pants (I should already know this -- she didn't wear the ones I made last year or any of the ones that J. has grown out of).  So this top is pretty bland but that might work well as she's got lots of colour in her wardrobe already, including these playtime leggings (also in the cheap-o Michael Miller knit).   It is so hard to get a picture of her these days when she's not being a clown!   She insisted the water bottle stay in the picture!

Finally, a linen tea party ruffle skirt for J.  The tutorial was originally posted on From an Igloo but it seems to not be available anymore.  Way back in 2010, it was one of the first tutorials I found and the skirt I made J. from it was one of her favourites for a long time.  And J. was impressed with this one, too: I make lots of things for the girls and things that are much more complicated than this but she asked me twice if I actually made the skirt or if I bought it :). 

So although I didn't finish all that I had planned, I think the stuff I did get done will be worn.  Success!

Stamped Placemat (singular!)

When I was home in September, my mom showed me some placemats that she'd bought years ago at a craft sale and said she'd not been able to find anything similar since (hint, hint!).  They were made out of a cheater print so I immediately thought of the Stamped yardage I'd won in a giveaway at the Long Thread few months ago.

I cut them out early (like in October!) and thought hand quilting them would make a nice relaxing project while watching TV or waiting at the kids activities.  Ha!  There clearly hasn't been enough TV watching and when my kids have been busy, I've busy too -- grocery shopping, Christmas shopping, running errands.

My dad was here on the weekend so I madly finished one that he could take home for Christmas.  His comment was that I might get the others finished in time for next Christmas.  Haha, Dad!  I hope not but now that they are definitely not going to be done in time for this Christmas despite my best intentions that might prove to the be case.  I need deadlines!  But not unrealistic deadlines as I don't work well under pressure.

Sewing with the kids

My littlest has shown a lot of interest in learning to sew; she makes things alongside me whenever I'm working. So far it's mostly been handsewing -- buttons onto scraps or small shapes into doll "blankets" -- but she's been asking to use my sewing machine for a long time.  She's five right now (and a fairly mature five) so I decided it was time.  Our first project is tissue cozies for teacher gifts and it's been perfect -- all straight seams and not very many of them.  Plus they don't take much fabric so I get to make a dent in my overflowing scrap bin.

Both my girls have gotten involved (my eldest is 8) and they have been enjoying picking the fabric and, because each one is quick to sew up, the sewing, too. I don't think they'd have the attention span for anything more involved than this right now.  We've sewing up one or two and then they've been decorating them with fabric paint and markers.  They're really proud that they've made them themselves and have been compiling a huge list of people they want to give them to.

Cozy Winter Hood

I've lost track of how many times I've made this pattern (from Little Things to Sew).  It's gotta be at least a dozen by now -- bears, mice, monkeys, tigers and now a leopard (or is it a cheetah?).  J. picked the fleece and told me how she wanted the ears to look.  Judging from her reaction, I don't think I quite got them right but I'm not sure how to fix them to for her.  Oh well, if she doesn't wear it, I have a feeling her little sister would be happy to.

The lining is a soft, thick knit I picked up at Dressew in Vancouver last year -- $5/metre and 74" wide (mixing up my units of measurement, there, oops!).  It washed up so nicely, I wish I'd bought more.  Why isn't there anywhere it Ottawa that sells good knits??

Purple Chambray Playtime Dress

When we first started talking about Halloween, K. said she didn't want a new costume this year, she would choose from our dress up bin.  She regretted her decision when I came home with this purple chambray for J.'s Miss Mush costume but luckily for her I had enough left over for a Playtime Dress (and probably another top!).  

(At the end of the day, she was okay without having a new costume -- for one party she was Anne of Green Gables wearing a hat with braids we bought in PEI this summer and the Alice dress. On Halloween, we painted her face green and she wore J.'s old witch costume.)

This is a straight size 6 with a couple of extra inches in the skirt length.  I used grey topstitching thread for the "collar" and around the bodice.  The next time I make the pattern with a woven, I think I will line the bodice instead of using facings.  The seam where the bodice and the skirt meet bothered K. so I covered it with bias tape but a lining would fix that.  

To liven it up, we picked up some fabric paint (pebeo setacolour opaque in pearl) at the art store.  I thought I would add polka dots but K. requested hearts; she even drew me a picture of how she wanted it to look (I wish I'd saved it!).   I trace my patterns onto freezer paper so it was simple to just cut hearts into my pattern piece and use that as a stencil.  It has a "homemade" look to it but in a good way :).  It hasn't been washed it yet but even if it fades a little, I think it will still look okay.

Cost

Fabric: Chambary used 1.5 m $3.98

Pattern: Playtime Dress bought from Fabrications $18.02

Buttons: stash 

Total: $22

Miss Mush Library Dress

J. loves the TV show Wayside High.  I think it's the accents more than anything.  Well, that and the crazy behaviour.  We've been on the waiting list for the books at the library for the past month but nothing yet; they must be good to be so popular!  J.'s an avid reader so I'm sure she'll love them when they do come in.

Anyway, the costume: I started with the Library Dress from Oliver and S.  It's a size 8 with 10 inches of extra length. It's a bit big for J. but that was on purpose -- you never know what the weather is going to be like on Halloween but she can wear layers underneath if she needs to (which she likely will!).

The fabric is a lovely soft purple chambray from Fabricland.  *Sometimes* I get lucky there.  It was on clearance and the person who cut it for me gave me almost a metre extra, that coupled with the fact that it was an extra wide bolt made this a very economical costume.  

My girls prefer zippers because they can do them up themselves so I replaced the button placket in a very scientific way -- I sewed a zipper in using a 3/4" SA instead of 1/2" and replaced the facings on the bodice with lining.  It worked but was not the most correct way to do it, I'm sure.  

I improvised for the hat and the apron using an old sheet.  J. wasn't happy with the hat and I might try again before the big day. It ended up being too puffy on top and not quite big enough to be comfortable as I neglected to factor in the wig in my calculations!

I've never been good at styling hair but I learned to do a sock bun!  In a plastic wig no less.  It's pretty cool, I must say because you can't see the sock at all.  It stood up to a day of play and I didn't even use bobby pins.  

J. is very literal and when we put all the pieces together, she wasn't totally convinced that she looked like Miss Mush.  I would argue the side-by-side pictures tell a different story :)

Cost:

Fabric: Chambary used 1.5 m $3.98, white was scraps + old sheet $0

Pattern: Library Dress bought from Fabrications $18.02

Zipper: stash 

Wig: $9

Total: $31

Sidekick Tote, part 2

Although I really like my original sidekick tote it's too big for most of my outings and I don't like always having to wear it across my chest.  So here is my second attempt at this pattern.  Well, actually my second and third attempt because I made one the same for my mom.  

The main fabric might look familiar -- I was inspired to use essex linen after seeing this one, this one and of course this one.   For the pocket, I used some of the Stamped fabric that I won in a giveaway over at the Long Thread awhile ago.  I love it, it's so cheerful!  (Ellen has a new line coming out soon -- it's called Garden and it looks equally fabulous).  

My mom said she would never carry it messenger-style, so I just used a 21" strap for hers.  For mine, I figured out how to use the adjustable hardware (not difficult but I just couldn't wrap my head around it the first time around).  I used scraps of quilting batting to pad the straps instead of interfacing and I love the way it turned out, so much nicer to carry.  

I love having an outside pocket for my keys and this time I used a magnetic snap instead of velcro. I added a water bottle pocket inside again because it's worked really well in my other one.  I used duck cloth for the interior just for it's durability and this time made sure to match the top of the lining to the outside.  It's a great pattern and gives a really professional looking bag. 

Sally Dress Pattern Testing

Way back in July I was lucky enough to be chosen to by Shannon of luvinthemommyhood to test her newest pattern -- the Sally Dress.

It's a great pattern: cute, beginner friendly and a quick sew.  I particularly love the square neckline and the shape of the straps on the shoulder.  K. particularly loves the huge pockets :).  I used some voile that I had been hoarding saving for just the right project -- little folks honey berry for the outside free spirit froth (I think) for the lining of the bodice and the pockets.

Shannon adjusted the pattern slightly since I made this version so I think some of the fit issues I had have been resolved.  I initially made a size 4 bodice but it was too tight so I ripped it out and made a size 5, which proved to be too big.  The second time around, I added a placket and buttons to the back to make it easier for K. to get on and off but that was totally unnecessary.  The neckline on the size 5 gaped a bit and the straps fell off her shoulders so I added a few pintucks to the front to bring it in.  I plan to try the final version (this time with sleeves!) but with vacations and the start of school, I haven't had time yet.

You can buy a pdf of the pattern here or here.

I love the square neckline.

And, just for fun, a couple of pictures showing her true personality :)

Lisette Attache Dress - Simplicity 1666

Before starting this dress, I stewed about it for a ridiculous amount of time.  Like thinking-about-it-in-the-middle-of-the-night ridiculous!  I worried about whether the style would suit me and, once I decided it might, about the best fabric choice and then how to get it to fit.  There aren't many versions online so I asked for some advice about what size to cut from the very helpful ladies on the Lisette forum.

And then I made a muslin with a zipper even (!).  But I wasn't brave enough to cut the size I should have from my real fabric (silly me!).  I cut size 16 at the shoulders, graduating to 18 at the chest with an extra inch at the bust then a 20 at the waist.  I ended up taking it in a lot at the waist and, after wearing it, I think I could have taken it in more.  I don't know why I worried about fitting this, though.  The princess seams make it really easy to take in a bit here or add a bit there.

Worrying aside, it was a quick sew.  And it fit the bill for what I wanted: a casual dress that I would be comfortable wearing.  I wore it twice on our recent holiday -- with a pearl necklace to an evening performance of Anne of Green Gables and then again when we went out for a lobster supper.  I felt slightly more dressed up than most people on those two occasions but still comfortable and not out of place.

Excuse the wrinkles, apparently I didn't do a very good job ironing it after getting it out of the suitcase and then this is after wearing it for awhile :).

Pattern: Simplicity 1666, bought at Fabricland $8.76
Fabric: Kaufman Cotton/Linen Chambray Shirting bought from Fabric.com, used 71 inches $35.50
Notions: zipper $2.08

Total: $46.34

Cascade Skirt

I wasn't drawn to Megan Nielsen's cascade skirt pattern until I saw Kelly's lovely version.  It looked so classy and effortless that I wanted one, too, lol!  Then I was in the neighourhood, so I popped into Fabrications and bought the pattern.  Shoulda done my homework first, though -- I'm larger than the largest size and that should have clued me in to the fact that this pattern wouldn't work for me.  But since I'd already bought the pattern, I just increased the waist and barreled ahead.

(As an aside, I would like to lose a few pounds but have never thought of myself as "big".  But there have been a few patterns where I'm larger than an XL.  Who would have thought that sewing for myself could give me a complex that I never had buying off the rack?!)

Despite the miles of hemming, this was a very quick sew.  My first thought when I tried it on was that I would give it to my sister as it would suit her more. But I think I'll keep it as I may wear it, even if only as a beach cover up.  I know it's not that bad but I didn't need to ask anyone if my bum looked big in it, hehehe.   It is really fun to wear and my girls were impressed -- they think I need more "pretty" in my wardrobe.

Here are the pictures that my 5 year old took.  (the ones that include the skirt anyway, she took lots of just my upper half until I realized what she was doing!).

Pattern: Casade Skirt by Megan Nielsen, bought at Fabrications $24.80

Fabric: floral voile from fabricland $15.26

Total: $40.06

Sweet Pickins Fairy Tale Dress

My eldest turns 8 next week and for her birthday I decided to replace her Dotty Ombre Fairy Tale Dress.  She Loves -- and I mean loves with a capital "L" -- that dress.  Wears it to all sorts of places that don't really call for a party dress -- to the ball park to watch me play softball (paired with her secret agent trench, which amused my teammates to no end!), to school where she hangs upside down on the monkey bars every chance she gets, to the grocery store, to play in the back yard.  You get the picture.

I still love the dress, too, but it makes me cringe to see it on her -- it is a size 6 and was definitely getting too small -- hard to do up and bunching around the armpits.   This one is a size 7 with added length in the bodice and skirt.  It's similar enough to the other that I hope she'll be happy to retire it :).

Changes I made: I didn't use the pattern pieces for the skirt -- just cut the width of fabric by the length I wanted, eliminating the side seams.  I left off the collar and the sleeves (obviously!) and dropped the neckline by about an inch. I had tonnes of bias tape left over from the previous dress so used it for piping around the arms, neck and waist.  I struggled with the armholes and was really wishing that I'd made my life easier by finishing them with bias tape as the pattern specifies.  I had to hand stitch the lining in place because I couldn't figure out how else to do it and trying to get it all smooth and in the right place was a complete nightmare.

The fabric is Sweet Pickins Stitched Circles in Aloe ordered ages ago from fabric.com.  I lined it with a super lightweight cotton voile from fabricland.  I included the tulle because I think the pouffy skirt is part of the appeal.

I'm excited to give it to her because she has no idea idea I'm making it.  I hope she'll be happy.

Fabrics: sweet pickins $8.97, cotton voile lining $8.93, tulle $0.86, yellow bias tape $1.95
Notions: invisible zip $3.55
Pattern: used before (cost per use 5.36)

Total: $24.26

Sidekick Tote

I made a purse for my mom for her birthday waaay back in 2010 and on her last visit, she said the clasp finally gave out.  She never asks me for anything so my plan is to replace it for her.  While I like the Pheobe Bag, I wanted to try something different and the Sidekick Tote with the recessed zipper and outside pocket seemed like a good option.  And since I need a new bag, too, I thought I would test drive the large size :).

I used a medium-ish weight twill I bought at Dressew in Vancouver.  If I'm shopping for RTW, I rarely buy patterned things so I'm learning to tone it down for things I make for myself.  There are so many gorgeous printed fabrics out there but if I'm not comfortable wearing/carrying something, it's not worth it!  The stripes going different directions are enough pattern for me :)

Speaking of patterned fabrics, one thing I will do differently next time is use the exterior fabric for the lining above the zipper.   Love, love, love the recessed zip but didn't think about the fact that the lining would be visible above it (duh!).

The pattern is great.  The only part I was a bit confused about was when it came to keeping the zipper end free when stitching up the lining.  I had sewed the zipper right to the end so how do you not catch it in the lining??  I just unpicked it a bit and was good to go but next time I'm going to have to follow the zipper insertion instructions a more carefully.

The only change I made was to add an interior pocket for my water bottle.  I carry water everywhere with me and I hate when the bottle ends up in the bottom of my bag (and then my bag drips all over my legs as I'm walking around, lol!).

The other thing I did which wasn't really on purpose was leaving off the adjustable part of the straps.  I could only find D-rings locally (not what was recommended in the pattern) and then couldn't figure out how to make them work.  And didn't have the patience to look it up.  So I just used the long strap and I'll have to see how it works.

I'm excited about having a bag (that's not a reusable grocery bag!) that I can carry my wallet, my water, my kobo and whatever else in.  It even fits my DSLR so my next project should be a padded caddy so I can use it as a camera bag . . . .

The details:
Fabric: 1/2 metre twill from Dressew $1.95, 1/2 yard cotton for the lining approx. $2.50
Pattern: Noodlehead Sidekick Tote $8.49
Notions: zipper $1.25
Total: $14.19

IKEA Birds Roller Skate Dress

When I finished the ladybug roller skate dress (that K. loves so much!), I asked J. to pick fabric for one for herself.  She was strangely hesitant, though, and I finally got out of her that she wasn't sure about the elastic empire waist. She needs a couple new outfits so I said I would make the dress and then we could figure out where to put the elastic so that she would be comfortable.  Turns out she was serious and wouldn't let me put it in at all!!  I gotta get a picture of her in it because I can't quite decide if it's more cute 60s swing dress or unflattering mu-mu (sp??).  Doesn't really matter, though, as long as she's happy.

This is such a quick sew!  I cut and sewed the entire thing in a couple of hours one evening (and I'm not quick at either cutting or sewing!).  I lengthened the dress by 3 inches and added a bartack to the bottom of the back opening but otherwise didn't make any changes.

The details:

Fabric: IKEA birds $3.39, cotton voile for the lining from fabricland $5.95

Pattern: Oliver and S Roller Skate $0 (cost per use $5.66)

Button: stash

Total: $9.34

Ladybug Roller Skate Dress

A few weeks ago I won a giveaway over at the Long Thread -- 6 yards from the Stamped line plus  the book 1-2-3 Sew (!!).  I haven't made anything from the book yet but this fabric is lovely -- it's a medium weight linen/cotton blend, and is super soft and easy to work with.

When I realized I could get a size 5 Oliver and S Roller Skate Dress out of one yard I was pretty excited.  I couldn't use a standard layout though so I made sure I cut one side of the back facing up and one facing down and I made sure both sides were lined up along the grainlines.  Unfortunately it didn't even cross my mind to line up the pattern on the back.  D'oh!  Definitely kicking myself for that one!  Especially since all it would have taken was an extra inch or so.

So instead of being donated to the silent auction at the school, once it gets a button and a hem, this will join my daughter's overflowing wardrobe.

And I will just have to make another for the school.  Good thing this pattern is so quick and easy!  I can see why so many versions have popped up in the flickr pool.

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Linen and Eyelet Pinwheel Dress

It didn't quite get finished during KCW but close.  I got distracted last week making costumes for the play J is in this week.  I kind of expected there would be some last minute work to do and I'm just glad I got called in to help.  Would be slightly embarrassing to volunteer and not be given anything to do :) .

This dress is all stash fabric -- the eyelet I bought on clearance a couple of years ago planning to make a skirt for myself, which obviously didn't happen, the navy linen is left over from my souvenir blouse and the floral I bought last summer.  I loved the print but no one else in my family was too thrilled with it.  I made extra bias tape so I can sneak it in other places, too.

This is a size 7 with an extra inch in the body.  I'm glad I added it and wish I'd added two.  J. always does the bend over test when I make her a new dress and this one barely squeaked by.  (Apparently you're asking for teasing if you show off your undies at school.  But seriously, who bends over at the waist to pick up a pencil anyway??)

Judging from her reaction when I asked her to take the tunic off, I have a feeling the slip dress on it's own will get lots of wear.

edited to add some detail pictures.  Gosh, I love this combo!  And it just goes to show that I really don't need to do any more shopping until I work through my stash :).

Instead of a facing, I cut a slit and took the bias tape all the way around.  And, at J's request, instead of attaching ties, I made a buttonhole loop with one end.

eek, this is a bit blurry but (despite the unclipped threads!) I like how the inside turned out.  The eyelet had a wide selvedge that obviously matched and although I wasn't able to cut it on the bias, it was light enough to use to bind the seams.

KCW - Day 1 WIP

Last week in anticipation of KWC I cut a pinwheel dress for J. and made the bias tape to go along with it.  Even with that done, I have a feeling it's more than slightly ambitious of me to think that I can get it sewn up during the week.  It's not a difficult pattern but after all it is two separate items.  Plus all there's all that bias tape!  Not my favourite part for sure.

I also cut banyan shorts and a class picnic blouse as part of my initial plan to round out J.'s wardrobe with some much needed staples.  That plan also included a hopscotch skirt in a neutral colour and some summer pjs.  The pinwheel dress jumped the queue though because I got excited about the combination of fabrics and because J.'s got a big performance coming up -- she's an extra in a local theatre production of Wizard of Oz and I'm sure there'll be an after-party or two that will require something dressy.  She could wear her ombre fairy tale dress but that dress doesn't even make it to the laundry -- it gets hung up and worn again until I insist it needs a wash. I'm super glad she likes it but she needs some variety, lol!

I tend to do most of my sewing on the weekends so here's a shot of what I did yesterday.  Hopefully I'll find some time to do some more today:

This is totally unrelated to KCW but I thought I'd throw it in here.  Since Liesl Gibson asked for feedback about favorite outfits on the O+S forum, I've been thinking a lot about what I do wear and what I would like to wear.

I have some evenings out planned over the next couple of months and on the weekend I got myself all in a tizzy about having nothing to wear.  In a trip to the fabric shop, I found a bolt end of extra wide black/grey linen/cotton shirting in the clearance section for $3/m.  Although it wasn't what I had gone looking for (something to replicate this pretty Laurel blouse) I really liked it and couldn't believe my luck at the price.

That very same evening, I had it washed and cut and mostly sewed it into vogue 8581.  I had been meaning to try this pattern with a woven for ages but I'm not sure what made me think this fabric was the one to try with.  Yeah, it was called "shirting" but that didn't mean it was lightweight or drapey.  In fact, when I first picked it up, I was thinking it might work for a vogue 1247 skirt.   But it was only as I was gathering the neckline, that the doubt set in.  Then trying it on confirmed it -- I was fully into clown land with big puffy sleeves and a poofy chest and back.  Urrgh. 

Although the fabric was only $6, I was so ticked at myself because it would've made a great button up shirt (hmm, "shirting" should have tipped me off!).  I might be able to eek a skirt out of the leftovers but even though it was too stiff for the shirt, I'm not sure it's heavy enough for that.  Oh well, not this week anyway!

O + S Secret Agent Trench

I've been promising J. a secret agent trench since the pattern came out but there seemed no point in making it over the winter (which feels neverending this year!).   With some tentative signs of spring in the air, I took her fabric shopping with me.  I had hoped that some bright colour or pattern would win her over but she didn't waver in her request for khaki.  A true secret agent wouldn`t wear a bright colour or a floral print as that would "blow her cover"!  And wouldn't you know it, neither fabric store we went to had khaki coloured twill.  We did find this heavy ponte de roma, though.  Even on sale it was more than I really wanted to spend.  I briefly debated about whether it would work and whether it was worth the cost but because J. was with me and eager to get the project going, I bought 2m.  I was surprisingly easy to work with and I think it makes for a super comfy coat. 

I used a stretch stitch and a size 14 ball point needle and had no problems until it came to the button holes.  My automatic buttonhole foot would not feed the fabric through.  One of the lovely ladies on the O+S forum suggested doing them manually and that worked well.  Except that I made each and every single one of them 1/2 inch too big.  Oops.  When I realized that, I only cut them big enough for the buttons, added another bartack at the right spot and removed the excess stitching.  I have a feeling I will be fixing them again before too long!

J. is super pleased with the coat, even with the fact that it's too big.  She'll be 8 in June but her measurements put her at a size 6 in O+S patterns.  I wanted this jacket to last for a bit so I made size 7 with two inches of extra length (thanks to discussion in the forum, I added one inch at the notches and one inch to the bottom).  I think I also added an inch to the sleeves, which turned out to be not necessary but J. doesn't want them fixed. 

I took a couple of pictures and then asked what a secret agent would do.  She carefully made footprints in the snow and then "tracked" them, stopping along the way to pick up a "clue".  I love this kid's imagination.  She's been playing secret agent games all week.  And we're planning a secret agent party for her next birthday.

Here`s the inside view: I didn't need to finish the seams as the fabric doesn't ravel but the pattern suggests binding them with bias tape and I think that finishes it off nicely.

Pattern: Oliver and S Secret Agent trench ordered from Sew, Mama, Sew $19.31
Fabric: 1.8m heavy ponte de roma from Fabricland $25.18
Bias tape: .25m fabric approx. $1.50
Interfacing: 1m approx $2.00
Buttons: from silver soup bowl at Button Button in Vancouver $2.96

Total: $50.95
eeek, that makes me re-think wanting to keep track of what I spend!  I definitely could have bought this way cheaper.  Oh well, she loves it and that`s all that matters!