My new "uniform" - the Mila Shirt

I've made four Itch to Stitch patterns so far (the Angelia Shorts, Irena Knit Top, Liana Jeans and of course the Mila Shirt) and am now a dedicated fangirl :) (and also an affiliate, all of the above are affiliate links).  Kennis' patterns are well drafted and the instructions are fantastic.

With a two piece collar, placket, sleeve tabs, cuffs, etc., the Mila Shirt is not exactly a quick sew but it is a satisfying one.  I love the two that I've made so much that I think they might push my (multiple) Tovas out of top spot for my "uniform" of choice.  With the gathers at the front and the pleat at the back, the Mila definately trumps the Tova in comfort.  Of course, having the different cup sizes included in the pattern helps, too.   I've never done an FBA but I should really learn how.  Or I can just use patterns that are drafted for a D cup :)

I made this one out of a navy linen-rayon blend.  Which proved really hard to photograph, it's not shiny in real life, I promise!

I had to cut my head off this one, I don't know what I was doing with my face!

I will likely usually wear this with the sleeves rolled up but I did add 1 1/2" to the length sleeves to account for my monkey arms in case I want to wear them down.

My 7 year old insisted on the square sparkly buttons and I think it was a good choice!

Pattern: Mila Shirt (free in exchange for testing)
Fabric: Linen Rayon blend from Dressew $15
Buttons: stash
Total: $15

Mila Shirt

I had such a great experience testing the Angelia Shorts for Itch to Stitch that I jumped at the chance to test the Mila Shirt.  I don't have much to say about this except that I love it.  The instructions are great and the fit is spot on (and the pattern includes cup sizes A to DD!).  The only change I made to this one was to lengthen the sleeves by 2" and shorten the body by 2".  I like the shorter length but I wish I'd thought to tone down the curve on the side, though -- it shows off the muffin top if I lift my arms up, lol.

The Mila pattern is currently being sold as part of the Indiesew Winter 2016 Collection or you can buy it as a on it's own in paper or PDF format.  After November 30, it will be available in PDF  at itch-to-stitch.com.  

Itch to Stitch Angelia Shorts

The timing of the call for testers for this pattern in May (!!) was serendipitous -- I had spent a couple hours the weekend before looking for some new shorts with no luck and these were just the style I had been looking for.  I also happened to have a block of time that I could devote to making them before the deadline.  I made the testing shorts in denim (pictures at the end of the post), another pair in linen (no pictures, sorry!) and a third pair in twill, which I took pictures of today. I've been meaning to write about these shorts for ages but the hold up has been the pictures.  I find it really hard to take pictures of myself!

The testing process was great.  Kennis set up a facebook page so that we could communicate with her and with the other testers about any issues we were having.  She was very receptive to feedback about fit and the clarity of the instructions (which by the way are great -- very thorough and with plenty of accurate illustrations).

View B is definitely not the quickest to sew but I love all the details that make them look like a pair of ready-to-wear shorts. These totally filled a gap in my wardrobe.

Changes made:
~ In order to accommodate my derriere -- I added a wedge to the back piece to lengthen the back crotch by 1/2" and also extended the back inseam by 1/4".  (I think I could still use a bit more space maybe because the twill pair sit higher than my first pair.  I messed up the zipper install on the denim pair so the waist is about an inch bigger.  That means they tend to slide down under my paunch but also give me a bit more butt room.)
~ I  took a 3/8" wedge out of the front in the twill pair
~ sewed the buttons right through tab on the side without doing a buttonhole
~ I left off the pocket tabs on the twill pair.  They look good but I use my pockets too much to want to fuss with a button.

Late to the Peplum Party

More than a year and a half ago, I won a $50 gift card and a Colette pattern from Harts Fabric. Excited, I ordered 5 (!) yards of fabric and the Hawthorn pattern, fully intending to make myself a dress.  When it arrived, I chickened out and decided to try the blouse version first using some soft cotton plaid I'd bought on sale at fabricland.  

I jumped right in and things were going well; I'd finished the hard parts - the collar, the sleeve plackets, etc. but then the cuffs didn't fit properly so I abandoned it.  For 18 months.   I don't know if peplums are still in fashion nor do I really care I'm just glad to not have this still haunting me from my sewing cupboard!

I can't remember what size I made or if I made any changes other than grading to a larger size from the bust (maybe?) down.  I do remember that even with the larger size, I had to let out the seams a bit were the top joins the peplum.  That makes me think either peplums are not for me or this one hits me too low?  And now I'm thinking that the area under the bust is too loose.  

Cue awkard photos of me staring out the window because I don't know what to do with my face  . . .

And here's the only picture that I managed to take of the back.  I'm an even more difficult subject than my kids!

I like the neckline and the collar and am proud of my cuffs (although they're far from perfect!) but I'm on the fence about the top as a whole.  I think I'll reserve judgement until I try wearing it for a day or two.

(I can't see myself ever making the dress since I've come to the realization that I'm really not a dress person so I still have that 5 yards of fabric for something else.  Does the dress version really call for 5 yards??  )

Pattern: Colette Hawthorn - Free!
Fabric: Cotton Plaid - approx. $7.00
Buttons: Stash

Total: $7.00

Vogue 1387 View A . . . and my first attempt at dyeing fabric

I've had this fabric for oh about a year.  It's a cotton-silk blend from Dharma Trading Co. but although it's not overly lightweight, it was fairly sheer.  Since I dislike wearing layers, every time I would pull it out to make something I would end up putting it away.

Late last Saturday night, I was itching to make something for myself -- we had been away from home for over three weeks and the weeks leading up to our trip were taken up with sewing flower girl dresses -- so I pulled this fabric out once again.  I couldn't find anything that would work for a lining, so I decided spur of the moment to dye it. My husband offered to at least do the dishes before I started but I just pushed everything to the side and pulled out my stock pot and dye.  I wasn't really sure what I was doing and I definitely used way too much dye (1 1/2 tsps for 2 yards of fabric) but the only casualty of the whole experience was the wooden spoon I used to stir, now permanently blue.  Not bad considering that I'm a horribly messy cook and was not at all organized.  (I once mangled the blade to my mom's stand mixer -- I put the spatula down on the mess on the counter.  When I picked it up again I didn't notice that a pencil stuck to it so it ended up in the mix.  Oops!)

This is Vogue 1387.  I bought this pattern for view B and actually started that one months ago.  I like it but it's waiting for snaps. Sometimes -- especially late at night -- it's more fun to start a new project than sew on snaps!

Here are the changes I made:
I cut the front on the fold along the centre front to eliminate the wrap.  There are a few nice versions online but the fact that even the pattern cover has the blouse tacked in place turned me off.  I added a button hole to the front before I sewed up the casing so that I could still include the tie.

I had some trouble with the underarm insets (a quick look at patternreview.com showed me that I wasn't the only one!).  The instructions would have you sew up the side seam and then the armbands and then you're supposed to somehow fit the gusset neatly in place.  Doesn't work.  I tried three times!  Didn't help that the notches for the gusset are not correct and the armbands are too long.  So instead of sewing the side seams all the way, sew only to the circle so that when you add the armbands they're enclosed in the seam. Trim off the excess armbands and ignore the notches on the insert.  Once I did that it was easy.

Overall, I like it.  I'd like to make it again but with some changes:
- lower the neckline slightly
- add an inch or so to the bodice so the ties hit me lower on the body
- use a fabric with even more drape

Denim Kelly Skirt

My local fabric shop is renovating --actually they're demolishing then rebuilding -- so as of the end of June, and for an indefinite period of time, I will have to travel much farther to shop.  This store doesn't generally have a great selection of fabric but I do go their fairly often for zippers, thread, etc.  The thought of being without it makes me slightly anxious but, in the meantime, they do have some good deals.

I made this skirt from part of a $5.00 remnant.  It's a nice colour and weight and, once I put a denim needle on my machine, it was really easy to work with.  The only problem is that it's stiff.  Really stiff.  I knew that and I prewashed (as always) but it was still super stiff.  I debated about making vogue 1247 or a grainline moss but really wanted to try the Kelly skirt.

I made it during KCW last week and if my kids had been into it, I would have made a hopscotch skirt or two to coordinate -- the theme was mini-me after all! -- but, according to both my daughters, putting buttons down the front of a skirt makes it completely unappealing. So too bad for them, I sewed for myself when everyone else was sewing for their kids!

Considering I only had half hour blocks of time to work on this, it came together quickly and it's super comfortable.  I'm not sure it's actually "universally flattering" despite it's reviews.  Maybe it's this fabric.  Or maybe it's the extra 10lbs I gained since I hurt my back.  Or maybe it's the strange way the pleats sit (especially at the back).  I'm really hoping the pleats calm down after a few washes/wears because right now they're pretty darn unflattering.  The only changes I made were to extend the waistband 1" add 1/4" to each of the front and back pieces.

I think if I were to make it again, I would copy the way the placket is done on the hopscotch skirt (the placket goes all the way to top instead of stopping at the waistband).  I'm pretty sure I've got my buttons in the right place but waistband doesn't lay properly when I'm wearing it.

Pattern: Megan Nielsen Kelly Skirt $9.60
Fabric: ~$5.00
Buttons: Stash

Total: $14.60

Lisette Attache Dress - Simplicity 1666

Before starting this dress, I stewed about it for a ridiculous amount of time.  Like thinking-about-it-in-the-middle-of-the-night ridiculous!  I worried about whether the style would suit me and, once I decided it might, about the best fabric choice and then how to get it to fit.  There aren't many versions online so I asked for some advice about what size to cut from the very helpful ladies on the Lisette forum.

And then I made a muslin with a zipper even (!).  But I wasn't brave enough to cut the size I should have from my real fabric (silly me!).  I cut size 16 at the shoulders, graduating to 18 at the chest with an extra inch at the bust then a 20 at the waist.  I ended up taking it in a lot at the waist and, after wearing it, I think I could have taken it in more.  I don't know why I worried about fitting this, though.  The princess seams make it really easy to take in a bit here or add a bit there.

Worrying aside, it was a quick sew.  And it fit the bill for what I wanted: a casual dress that I would be comfortable wearing.  I wore it twice on our recent holiday -- with a pearl necklace to an evening performance of Anne of Green Gables and then again when we went out for a lobster supper.  I felt slightly more dressed up than most people on those two occasions but still comfortable and not out of place.

Excuse the wrinkles, apparently I didn't do a very good job ironing it after getting it out of the suitcase and then this is after wearing it for awhile :).

Pattern: Simplicity 1666, bought at Fabricland $8.76
Fabric: Kaufman Cotton/Linen Chambray Shirting bought from Fabric.com, used 71 inches $35.50
Notions: zipper $2.08

Total: $46.34

Cascade Skirt

I wasn't drawn to Megan Nielsen's cascade skirt pattern until I saw Kelly's lovely version.  It looked so classy and effortless that I wanted one, too, lol!  Then I was in the neighourhood, so I popped into Fabrications and bought the pattern.  Shoulda done my homework first, though -- I'm larger than the largest size and that should have clued me in to the fact that this pattern wouldn't work for me.  But since I'd already bought the pattern, I just increased the waist and barreled ahead.

(As an aside, I would like to lose a few pounds but have never thought of myself as "big".  But there have been a few patterns where I'm larger than an XL.  Who would have thought that sewing for myself could give me a complex that I never had buying off the rack?!)

Despite the miles of hemming, this was a very quick sew.  My first thought when I tried it on was that I would give it to my sister as it would suit her more. But I think I'll keep it as I may wear it, even if only as a beach cover up.  I know it's not that bad but I didn't need to ask anyone if my bum looked big in it, hehehe.   It is really fun to wear and my girls were impressed -- they think I need more "pretty" in my wardrobe.

Here are the pictures that my 5 year old took.  (the ones that include the skirt anyway, she took lots of just my upper half until I realized what she was doing!).

Pattern: Casade Skirt by Megan Nielsen, bought at Fabrications $24.80

Fabric: floral voile from fabricland $15.26

Total: $40.06

Sidekick Tote

I made a purse for my mom for her birthday waaay back in 2010 and on her last visit, she said the clasp finally gave out.  She never asks me for anything so my plan is to replace it for her.  While I like the Pheobe Bag, I wanted to try something different and the Sidekick Tote with the recessed zipper and outside pocket seemed like a good option.  And since I need a new bag, too, I thought I would test drive the large size :).

I used a medium-ish weight twill I bought at Dressew in Vancouver.  If I'm shopping for RTW, I rarely buy patterned things so I'm learning to tone it down for things I make for myself.  There are so many gorgeous printed fabrics out there but if I'm not comfortable wearing/carrying something, it's not worth it!  The stripes going different directions are enough pattern for me :)

Speaking of patterned fabrics, one thing I will do differently next time is use the exterior fabric for the lining above the zipper.   Love, love, love the recessed zip but didn't think about the fact that the lining would be visible above it (duh!).

The pattern is great.  The only part I was a bit confused about was when it came to keeping the zipper end free when stitching up the lining.  I had sewed the zipper right to the end so how do you not catch it in the lining??  I just unpicked it a bit and was good to go but next time I'm going to have to follow the zipper insertion instructions a more carefully.

The only change I made was to add an interior pocket for my water bottle.  I carry water everywhere with me and I hate when the bottle ends up in the bottom of my bag (and then my bag drips all over my legs as I'm walking around, lol!).

The other thing I did which wasn't really on purpose was leaving off the adjustable part of the straps.  I could only find D-rings locally (not what was recommended in the pattern) and then couldn't figure out how to make them work.  And didn't have the patience to look it up.  So I just used the long strap and I'll have to see how it works.

I'm excited about having a bag (that's not a reusable grocery bag!) that I can carry my wallet, my water, my kobo and whatever else in.  It even fits my DSLR so my next project should be a padded caddy so I can use it as a camera bag . . . .

The details:
Fabric: 1/2 metre twill from Dressew $1.95, 1/2 yard cotton for the lining approx. $2.50
Pattern: Noodlehead Sidekick Tote $8.49
Notions: zipper $1.25
Total: $14.19

Sewaholic Renfrew

I went to Vancouver last week and, especially as I was kid-free and husband-free, couldn't pass up a chance to go to Dressew. That place boggles my mind! I spent about 2 hours wandering around and still ended up going back the next day -- I can't take it in all at once.

This time around, the clearance section in the basement was filled with knits. Serendipitous as the Renfrew pattern was on my list of things to pick up.  It's not sold in stores here and so I thought I would save shipping and check out Spool of Thread at the same time. (As it turns out, a friend I was meeting suggested dinner at restaurant in the same block so it really worked out!).

I bought a couple of different knits but now really wish I'd bought them all!  I'm in love with this pattern -- quick to put together, fits well and looks great for a casual top.  If you left off the cuffs and used different fabric, it could even be quite dressy.

I'm in between sizes so picked the smaller size and then decreased the seam allowance to 3/8" (partly because I was worried it would be too tight and partly because a 5/8" SA seems a bit excessive for a knit).   I also added an inch of extra length to the body and an inch to the arms.  That might have been a bit overboard but it's super cozy and it may shrink more the next time I wash it.  I may add thumb holes to the cuffs -- I think that would be awesome under a jacket and mitts -- but I'm going to wear it a couple of times first.

I used a "new" stitch for this top.  Since I was going to be away, I took my machine (a middle of the road Kenmore) to get serviced.  When I got it home, I looked at the stitch test the repairman left behind and realized that I hadn't used most of the stitches.  So I got out my manual and wouldn't you know it, one of the stitches was called a straight stretch and was billed as durable and elastic.  With the hours I spend at my machine, how did I not even notice these extra stitches???

So I tried it out and so far so good.  It goes back and forth three times so there's not the gaps or the pulling in the seams as when I've used a narrow zigzag or even my double needle. It uses a tonne of thread -- I filled my bobbin twice for this top -- but if it works, that's fine by me.  I'm really kicking myself for not looking into it more when I was on my Field Trip kick.  Oh, well.  Next time!

(my husband took the pictures.  I told him he could include my face but the first few were awful.  I asked him what to do my face and he said I don't know, smile?  so there it is, my smile)

This year I've decided that I'm going to keep track of how much things cost to make.  I find it fascinating when other bloggers do it and I've realized that I have no idea what I spend.  So here's the breakdown for this top:

Fabric: Dressew $3.00/m, bought two metres and just have scraps left $6.72 including tax
Pattern: Spool of Thread $18.98 including tax
Total Cost: $25.70 Seems like a lot but I know I will use the pattern again.

Lined Wiksten Tova

This is the sixth time I've made this pattern but the first time I've lined the body.  I wanted to but chickened out when I made my mom's.  I did line the inset that time and, while Nina's post was helpful, she didn't provide any in-process photos.  So I decided to take pictures this time.  Really crappy pictures.  My sewing room is in a basement with no natural light so not so great for photography.  I tried to fix them in photoshop but I'm not sure I improved them much.  And the fabric ended up looking black and white instead of grey and white.  Anyway, here goes!

No photos of this step but I'm sure you can figure it out: place the inset and the inset lining right sides together and stitch the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the inset (as per the instructions).  Follow the instructions for completing the placket while keeping the lining free.

Repeat for the other side and then baste the inset pieces together at the placket with the left placket covering the right.

Baste the front piece lining to the front piece along where the inset will go (as you can see from the picture below, I didn't do this.  It would have been a good idea.)

Pin the inset to the front piece as per the instructions while keeping the lining free.  Stitch the inset to the front piece.

Where the plackets overlap, clip the seam allowance.  This is so that the entire seam allowance can be covered by the lining in the next step.

Fold lining over 3/8" to the wrong side and press.  From the front, pin lining so that it covers the stitching line and topstitch.  (or slipstitch or baste in place and then topstitch).

There. The inset is almost as pretty from the inside as the outside!

To finish it off, I sewed the front and back shoulder seams together including the lining.  When I sewed the side seams, I kept the lining free and finished it separately.  I cut the lining an inch shorter then the shirt so that it wouldn't show.   The only seams that are currently unfinished are around the arms and I think I will just trim and zig zag them.

And for the first time, a picture of me, including my face!  As you can tell from my lovely expression, I don't like pictures of myself but am going to try harder this year, especially when it comes to being in pictures with my kids.  I actually got out the tripod the other day, which my kids seemed to enjoy.  (my husband was home a the time but didn't take the hint!)

By the way, the fabric is a lightweight cotton from fabricland (bought for $14.  I've already made an Alma and I still have enough left for another top.  Hmm, would anyone notice if I had three different tops in the same fabric in rotation at the same time?). I lined the body in a cotton voile from Dharma Trading.

Sewaholic Alma

I was so excited when I received this pattern that I traced and cut it right away.  Then the Halloween madness began so it sat unfinished on my desk for weeks.  Even though it's not the right time of year for it now, I'm happy it's done -- it's a flattering, comfortable blouse that's not too fussy.  I can see other variations in my future.

The fabric is a super lightweight summer cotton that was on clearance 3 metres for the price of one.  I certainly wouldn't have bought it at full price ($14/m!) but it is pretty and works for a trial run.  

I'm not sure what I will change next time.  I debated about the size and ended up cutting a size bigger than my measurements because I know I wont wear something if it's too tight.  I think it'll take a couple of times wearing this before I know if it was the right decision.  But the larger size  meant that I didn't need to add a zipper.  Woo hoo!

I made a couple of changes -- I don't find cap sleeves all that flattering on me so I lengthened them by an inch or so (in a totally half-assed way -- by tracing the top for the size I wanted and then the line for the smallest size.  I had to adjust the sleeve again once I'd partly sewed it on because of course it didn't quite fit properly.  I should have drafted a whole new one but I don't know how to do that!).

I also lengthened the top by two inches partly because I'm long-waisted and partly because I wanted a deeper hem; I find small hems don't lie as flat.

Overall I think it's a great pattern. You do need to have some sewing experience, however, as the instructions aren't as thorough as O+S.  They're as good or better than the big 4, though.

Vogue 1247 - Top, take 2

I wavered for ages before cutting out this top -- I love the colour but was worried it would read "scrubs".   I'm still not convinced it doesn't but I do like the style of this pattern.  The only changes I made from the the last time was to add yet another inch, this time to the bottom pieces.  I think the length is good for me now.

The fabric is Kaffe Fassett in Aegean from Mad About Patchwork.  It's soft and light and easy to work with but I don't know if I would recommend it for clothes.  I made this top before going away and I've only worn it a couple of times but it's already starting to pill.  I've found the same thing with my Tova.  It's a bummer because I'm not really big on prints but I find a flat solid colour is, well, flat while shot cottons have such lovely variations.  Still, it's a nice light summer top that's not a t-shirt so it's a win!

Vogue 8581

This is the top I was hoping for when I made the Honey Blouse (here and here).  The vogue pattern specifies two way stretch knit but I don't really see why you couldn't use a woven -- there are no closures but the neckline is wide enough even if the fabric doesn't stretch.  Although my measurements are more like 18, I cut this in size 16  and I think it fits fairly well.  It's missing the little details of the Honey Blouse -- the twisted neck band and the ties but those would be easy to add.

It's from the Very Easy Vogue line and that is true -- there are 5 pattern pieces and not even one full page of directions.  The only thing that was time consuming was sorting out the gathers on the neckline and then hand (!!) sewing the neck binding down.  The hand sewing sort of surprised me. Although it gives a nice finish on the inside, machine stitching it would make this top that much quicker to make (and it's already a really quick sew). 

The pattern calls for 3/4" elastic.  I had enough for the arms but used 1/2" for the waist and I think I like it better -- I think the larger size is unnecessary. 

The fabric is a cotton lycra knit from Girl Charlee.  It's slightly heavier than I think would be ideal for this top but I wanted to try out the pattern.  They seem to be sold out of it now but it was $11.50 for 2 yards and I think it was something crazy like 70 inches wide.  I have enough left over for another top. 

I used a twin needle to sew the side seams, which gives a bit of stretch and a very cool looking stitch underneath.  I used my walking foot for everything else -- once I figured out how to put it on, lol.  I use it quite a bit but I guess I was tired when I started and I couldn't figure it out.  It took me walking away and doing something else before I realized the reason it wouldn't fit was because the presser foot was down.  Duh.

Sorbetto

I had high hopes for this pattern.  I'd seen so many lovely versions online and it looked like it would be great for a basic top that didn't use a ton of fabric.  When I'm standing still it's fine but I don't think I have the patience to tinker with it to make it work in real life :). 

The neck is too wide -- when I bend over, everything is on display.  The chest/back are tight enough that when I move I have to readjust.  And the bust darts are way too high and migrate even higher when I lift my arms. 

The main fabric is left over from my first tova and the bias tape I made myself.  I used the same tutorial for cap sleeves as I used for my short sleeved tova (which, by the way, I've worn several times.  I've decided against any changes other than to stitch up the front placket a little bit.  It definitely serves it's purpose of being a nice cool top for the summer -- and, of course, I mean cool in the temperature sense :)).

Lisette Passport Jacket - Simplicity 2209

This jacket has been waiting for the finishing touches for about 2 months now.  It's made of the stretch denim I bought at DressSew in Vancouver last summer (the rest went to family reunion dresses here and here). 

The only reason this took so long to finish was that it was super short and I didn't know how to hem it to try to maintain all the length I could.  In the end, I bound the bottom in bias tape and slipstitched it.  It doesn't make for a very crisp hem, though, and is especially wonky where it meets the jacket facing.